Installation
Easy
Steps for Professional Installation
Contents
of this page (Click on titles)
Do
I use Water method or Dry hinge method
Surface
preparation & Marking out
Water
method
Dry
Hinge method
A
Hull with Chines
Stripes
Removing
Bubbles
Removing Old Names
Print version
To make it as easy as possible for you, our Boat Names generally
come in one piece and are sandwiched between a paper layer of
transfer tape and a waxed backing.
Remove
your boat name from its shipping tube. Let it flatten out in
a warm room for 24 hours where pets and children can't find
it.
Applying
you new name is simple if you follow these instructions exactly.
There are two different methods of appyling your names depending
on surface type, Name size, and weather conditions.
Choose the best method for your circumstances and read all the
way through before starting.
-
DO
NOT attempt if the surface or air temperature is colder
than 5 degrees Celsius. (40 degrees Fahrenheit)
-
DO
NOT apply to hot surfaces or dark surfaces in direct sunlight.
-
DO
NOT attempt on a windy day.
-
DO
NOT get backing paper wet.
....When
to use Water Method ............
Recommended
for shinny surfaces, such as new fibre glass, old fibre glass
that has not had too much sun damage and still has a bit of
a gloss to it. Dull surfaces trap a very fine layer of water
that takes a long time to dry and makes the process more difficult.
It is a good idea to use this method if you have a light breeze
or a large name, Large names also require a person at each end.
Boats with Chines that you have to go over (these look like
planks and are mainly found on aluminium boats) But only use
this method when they are painted. Do not use the water method
on unpainted aluminium even if you have to go over chines. Please
see the special section near the bottom if you have
a Hull with CHINES
When
to use Dry Hinge
Method
This
method is used for unpainted aluminium or very dull surfaces
that will trap a fine layer of water.
.....
....Surface
Preparation Both methods
All surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned before applying your
vinyl graphics. Remove any dried matter such as tape or glue
carefully with a single edge razor blade. (See Removing Old
Vinyl or Painted Names at the bottom of this page)
Freshly
painted surfaces should be dry for at least 72 hours prior to
application of the vinyl graphics. Clean the area with window
cleaner. Fibreglass & plastics or recently polished surfaces
(within the last 3 months ), saturate a clean cloth with methylated
spirits or prepsol and wipe the surface clean. If using prepsol,
follow immediately (as you are going along) with a clean dry
cloth.
.............Marking
Out Both methods
.........
If
you're lettering the sides of the vessel, pick a piece of hardware
common to both port and starboard as a reference point BEFORE
you begin. You'll really want to double check position of both
sides before adhering either! Sometimes one side of the boat
surprises you with a drain or a mystery window.
To get the name straight, start with a piece of tape on one
corner. Slap it up there where you think it should go. For hulls
with Chines (these look like planks) sit the base line of your
lettering just above a Chine, this will reduce the number of
chines you have to cross. You can always move it if you don't
like the position. Bring the other side into position and tack
it down with another piece of tape. Use a tape measure to be
sure it is level. If you have a straight edge on the paper backing
to measure to, great! If not, measure from the edges of similar
letters. Remember that some letters (like o's and s's) normally
sink below the line of text. Once you have positioned it correctly
make sure you have everyone's approval.
....Water
Method..........
You
will Need:
Your printed instructions (supplied in your kit) Plastic squeegee
(supplied in your kit) A small cutting knife or razor blade,
A Spray bottle filled with a mixture of dish soap and water.
(The mixture ratio is; 3 drops of soap to 1 cup of water), ,
2 clean dry rags, and a Tape measure.
And
for large names, another person. (Large names are ones you can't
comfortably reach each end of yourself)
Start
by following "Surface
preparation" and "Marking
out" sections above.
Apply
lines for repositioning
Draw with
a pencil across the edge of the paper and onto the boat on several
sides, this means you can reposition it exactly. Then remove
the name from the boat and place upside down on a clean surface
out of the wind so that you can remove the backing and spray
the sticky side of the lettering.
Spray
Spray the
surface of the boat as well with the soapy water, this allows
you to lift and re-place the name if necessary. It dose not
reduce the final adhesion of your name. Reposition the name
to the pencil marks.
Squeegee
Once
the graphic is back in position and lying perfectly flat on
the surface, Start from the centre work outward, use firm strokes
with the squeegee to force the water out from beneath the individual
letters or elements contained in your name. After most of the
water is squeegeed out, let it sit for 30 minutes (have a coffee)
Remove
the transfer tape
Now it is time to remove the transfer tape from the graphic
and reveal the final product. To remove the transfer tape without
difficulty, spray with water and soap mixture and wait 2 minutes
for the transfer tape paper to become slightly soggy. Gently
remove the transfer tape flat against the surface & at a
45-degree angle to the vertical bars of the lettering. Be careful
not to pull the graphic up with the transfer tape. If it dose
start to lift off simply place back down squeegee again and
leave a little longer.
Next Click Here
....Dry
Hinge Method...........
You
Will Need:
Your
printed instructions (supplied in your kit) Plastic squeegee
(supplied in your kit) A small cutting knife or razor blade,
2 clean dry rags, 1
roll of masking tape preferably 50mm wide,
and a Tape measure.
And
for large names, another person. (Large names are ones you can't
comfortably reach each end of yourself)
Start
by following "Surface
preparation" and "Marking
out" sections above.
Make
a Hinge
Apply 50mm masking tape to the top of the name. Half on the
transfer tape and half on the boat (as shown). This strip will
be used as a hinge that will insure the graphic does not move
during the squeegee process.
Special
Hint for large or long graphics.
If
the lettering is too large or long to handle in one piece, after
the hinge is in place, cut between each letter or a manageable
section and lay them down independently.
Remove
the Backing
Hold
the bottom edge of the hinged graphic away from the intended
surface and carefully remove the backing to reveal the sticky
back of the vinyl. (You can flip it upside down as in the photo
above if you like)
CAUTION!
Do
not let the exposed graphic touch the intended surface. The
back of the graphic is very tacky and will tightly adhere to
the surface. If the placement is not correct, removing the graphic
for re-placement will be very difficult or impossible without
causing damage to the vinyl.
Squeegee
While
still holding the hinged graphic away from the intended surface.
Using the squeegee and starting from the top, begin to put the
graphic to the intended surface. Note: Work from top to bottom.
Do not let the entire graphic fall onto the intended surface.
If lines or creases develop, Try lifting it just enough and
replacing it. If that fails just squeegee lightly over the damaged
area and try peeling up the damaged area and pushing it back
down smooth after you have removed the transfer tape.
Remove
the transfer tape
To remove the transfer tape without difficulty, apply some water
to the front of it and wait 2 minutes for the transfer tape
paper to become slightly soggy. Gently remove the transfer tape
flat against the surface & at a 45-degree angle to the vertical
bars of the lettering. Be careful not to pull the graphic up
with the transfer tape.
Next
Click Here
....A
Hull with Chines..........
(these
look like planks, as illustrated below)
When
painted, use Water when unpainted,
use Dry method
But
for BOTH follow the squeegee pattern below
Do
not use the boat within 24 hrs of application
Remember work from top to bottom, with chines it is necessary
to finish applying the vinyl completely to the first chine before
moving down to the next flat surface. To do this, keep the unattached
vinyl tight & away from the surface (wind dose not help
this) You need to push it onto the surface at your pace, without
it jumping across the valley.
Again make sure as this will save a lot of time latter. If applying
wet it is best to wait 5 minutes after finishing each valley
for the water dry out & let the vinyl stick properly. Be
sure to keep the rest of the lettering away from the surface
or it will stick there too. Run your finger along the valley
from the centre out 5 times, then twice with the rounded corner
of the squeegee until the vinyl is snugly fitted into the valley
before proceeding down, be patient. Be careful when you squeegee
down on the next valley that it doesn't pull away from the valley,
if this happens you have slightly to much soap in the water.
(Empty half the soapy water out & replace with fresh water)
To fix this carefully lift the lettering back to the valley,
spray with the less soapy water & apply again. If it doesn't
allow you to go back without stretching the vinyl you will have
to fix it after you have finished the whole job and removed
the transfer tape. See Fixing
Valley jumps on chines below. But
for now leave the transfer tape on for at least 30 mins. Go
have a coffee
Remove
the transfer tape
To remove the transfer tape without difficulty, apply some water
to the front of it and wait 2 minutes for the transfer tape
paper to become slightly soggy. Gently remove the transfer tape
flat against the surface & at a 45-degree angle to the vertical
bars of the lettering. Be careful not to pull the name up with
the transfer tape. You may need to follow along behind with
the squeegee holding down the exposed vinyl to relieve the stress
on it and stop it stretching.
Fixing
Valley jumps on chines
To
fix these warm up a little bit not to much with a hair dryer
and push the vinyl into the valley. You may need to pop some
bubbles to let air or water out first. If they are server and
your chines are quite deep you can cut the vinyl under the chine
and it won't be seen from side on.
....Stripes..........
Start by measuring down from a line on the boat
that will be parallel to your stripe, place pencil marks using
a soft pencil so that they are quite dark and easy to see. It's
better to mark where the top of the line will go, that way the
stripe & it's shadow don't get in the way of seeing the
marks. If you are applying two stripes do the bottom one first.
Place a mark every 2 paces with the first starting before the
final starting point of your stripes.
Now apply masking tape trying to place it 1mm
above these marks, ( If you are applying two stripes, use masking
tape that is the same width as the gap you would like between
the two colours) If you are only applying one stripe use 50mm
wide tape as it stays straight easier. If you are right handed
always work from left to right. Look down the masking with your
face about the length of your forearm away from the surface,
keep the tape firm so that it doesn't sag, but don't stretch
it, you have to be pulling quite hard to do that. Keeping your
eye on the marks and the edge of the tape simply bring them
slowly together.
Push with a finger point at the closest mark
to attach the tape just in that one spot. Now move 2 paces down
and do the same but this time as you're bringing the tape in
to line up with the marks you have to keep an I on the previous
section lining the new up with the old so there is no kink.
remember to keep the tape firm.
Once you have reached the end go back to the
beginning and just tap the masking tape on occasionally. .Now
looking down it see if you can spot any high or low areas, if
so mark them with an arrow to indicate the direction that they
go in.
................ 
Now start to apply the stripe in the same way,
counteracting the highs and lows. For stripe wider than 75mm
it's better to use the lightly soapy water, just spray it under
the striping one section at a time, Remember not to get the
backing wet, if you do remove it immediately. When you get to
the end DO NOT tap it down. Get the squeegee and push down firmly
all the way along.
..................
Remove the transfer tape and pop any bubbles
using instructions below. If you are applying a second stripe
leave the masking there.
Use the same method of application for the second
stripe but place it above the masking this time (So you need
to use masking tape that is the same width as the gap you would
like)
Now place your arrow head on over the front
so that it over laps. Trim the edges to the stripe width &
you have finished. To remove any bubbles see below.
..................
.........Removing
Bubbles Both methods
................
Finally, With hard pressure squeegee out any remaining water
bubbles using a little soapy water to help the squeegee slip.
If bubbles are still visible, simply pop them with a needle
at one end & press with the back of your fingernail gently.
Don't worry about small bubbles they should disappear in a week
or two.
Congratulations!
Again, Thank
you for your purchase and feel free to contact us with any questions
about applying to unusual surfaces or future needs you may have.
Boat Names
Australia cannot be responsible for damage that might be done to the lettering
while in use. This also applies to problems caused by failure to follow installation
instructions properly. In this instance we are happy to replace the affected area
at cost price. If you need assistance please do not hesitate to contact us.
Removal
Removing old Vinyl
Ghost images
Removing old Paint
....Removing
Old Vinyl...........
........... 
The best way
is to push a flat tool (not too sharp) against the corners of the letters to lift
them. Then slowly peel the vinyl up, if you go too fast then either some glue
will remain or the vinyl will break.
A good way to prevent breaking is to heat up the vinyl a little bit. Just facing
the side of the boat your working on towards the sun will usually heat up the
lettering or graphics enough. Other times you will have to use a Hair Dryer (Not
a Heat Gun as they are so hot they can easily destroy the boat's surface). This
heating will help the vinyl stretch instead of breaking.
If
glue is left on the boat then use a rag soaked in mineral turpentine
to soften it. Apply to a few letters at a time, let it sit for
a minute or two then you can scrape the bulk of the glue off
with a fairly blunt instrument. Now you should only have a very
thin layer of glue that can easily be rubbed off with the turps
rag. This can be a bit messy & take a little time but is
not difficult. If mineral turpentine is not working too well
then you may use liqueur thinner, but test some on a safe area
first, this is very strong and may damage the surface.
...If
there is a "ghost" of the old name.......
1.
You
can order your name a bit bigger, it doesn't usually matter
if the new name won't cover the old one completely as the contrast
distracts your eyes so much you won't even notice a slight discolouring
of the background surface. However the sun and oxidation will
slowly bring it back to original surface tone.
2.You
can buy bleaching agents from marine stores especially designed
for fiber glass boats that work well, you will probably have
a lot left over but it's always useful.
....Removing
Old Paint..............
........... 
DO NOT USE
PAINT STRIPPER
To
remove old paint sand (the painted area only) with 400 grit
paper in a circular motion to remove the bulk of the paint.
Then
wet & dry the surface with 1200 grit paper. Cut
& polish using a non silicone based polish, then buff it
& finally clean the surface well with metho or prepsol before
applying your new name.
If using prepsol, follow immediately (as you are going along)
with a clean dry cloth.
